Notes from the Camino

Short, honest posts about walking to Santiago — gear, money, routes and the things nobody warns you about.

A pilgrim in a hooded jacket walking up a hill in changeable weatherLong read · 19 min

When to walk the Camino: a month-by-month guide

There is no single best month. There is the month that fits the route you want, the crowds you can stand, the weather you can walk in and the beds you can find. Here is the whole year, honestly.

Sleeping bag or liner: what to sleep in on the Camino

Sleeping bag or liner: what to sleep in on the Camino

The sleeping bag question is one every first-timer asks and most guidebooks answer badly. Here's the straightforward version.

What the Camino really costs per day

What the Camino really costs per day

Here's where the money actually goes — and where you can reduce it without reducing the experience.

The Via Podiensis: starting the Camino in France

The Via Podiensis: starting the Camino in France

Some begin it 750 kilometres earlier, in the volcanic highlands of central France.

Why people walk: the Camino at a crossroads

Why people walk: the Camino at a crossroads

A surprising number of them are between things.

You will get bored on the Camino. Good

You will get bored on the Camino. Good

Not restless, not tired — genuinely, flatly bored. And it will be one of the more useful things that happens to you.

Walking the Camino in winter

Walking the Camino in winter

The Camino in January looks nothing like the Camino in July. Some pilgrims prefer it that way.

The Camino first aid kit that actually gets used

The Camino first aid kit that actually gets used

A few pack too little. Here's what actually gets used.

The Camino has no entry requirements

The Camino has no entry requirements

The Camino has no entry requirements. That turns out to matter.

Laundry on the Camino: the system that works

Laundry on the Camino: the system that works

Nobody talks about laundry before the Camino. Everybody thinks about it by day three.

Camino Aragonés: the quiet crossing via Somport

Camino Aragonés: the quiet crossing via Somport

A quieter, older crossing goes through Somport Pass — and the route it begins is one of the most underwalked on the entire network.

The whole Camino in your pocket

Plan your stages on the map, see the elevation profile and the weather for every hour of your walk, find albergues along the way and talk to pilgrims on the same route — free, offline-ready, in English, Spanish and Russian.